windisfun.com

Main

Links

Landsailing

Iceboating


Plans

Maststep

Seat / Backrest

Rigging

Here is a group of pics to help you put together a small landsailor. All of the materials can be found at your local scrap yard, garage sales, flea marts or can be purchased new. All metals are mild steel or tubing. I take a certain pride in "recycling" a lot of the materials that go into the buggy. If you can't find the exact sizes or lengths, just get as close as you can. Nothing is that critical. Be creative and have fun! You will need the following materials:

For the rear axle;

• 1 pc. square tubing, 1-1/4" x 60" long

• 2 pcs 1" angle iron, 4-5" long, 1/8" thick

• 2 ea. rod couplers, 5/8" thread; these look like an elongated nut.

• 2 bolts, 5/8" x 8" for the axles

For the frame;

• 2 pcs iron pipe, 1-1/4" dia. x 60" long

• 2 pcs 1-1/4" angle iron, 4" long

• 4 pcs 3/16" thick plate, 2-3/8" x 4"

• 1 front fork and front end from a girl's bike, with handlebars. Take a look at the pics for more details.

Wheels and Tires I have been using 4.80 x 8.00 boat trailer tires mounted on 8" wheelbarrow rims, with a 5/8" bolt for an axle. For the front tire you will have to modify a bike fork to fit the rim, or just use a 20" bike wheel and tire. Put some good quality sealed bearings in the wheelbarrow rims.

Tools

• Welder, or access to one. I use a small wire-feed, with gasless flux-core wire.

• Drill press, portable drill.

• Bench grinder with wire brush wheel.

• Clamps, locking pliers

• Metal cutting saw, either a bandsaw or abrasive wheel cut-off saw

• Bench vise and/or hydraulic press.


Step by Step Directions:
* * Click on the pictures to see a larger image. * *

Making the rear axle. You will need the 5 ft piece of 1-1/4" square tubing, 2 rod couplers with 5/8" threads, 2 pcs of 1" angle iron, 4" long.
1) In each end of the square tubing, drill three holes 3/8" dia. on two sides.



2) Slide the rod coupler and the angle iron just slightly into the end of the axle, with the angle iron on the same side as the holes.



With a pair of locking pliers, clamp the rod coupler to the angle iron

,

and weld as shown.



3) Thread a bolt partway into the rod coupler and tap the rod coupler/angle iron combo into the end of the axle until just a little of the rod coupler protrudes.



You may have to run a tap or thread chaser through the rod coupler before you are able to put the axle bolt in. Fill in the holes that were drilled previously, making sure to get the weld to penetrate into the angle iron.



4) Mark the center of the axle. Measure out 16-1/2" and 19-1/2" from the center and mark. Drill 5/16" holes at each point. The center hole is for the mainsheet, the other ones are attachment points for the side tubes.

 

5) Clamp a 4" long 1-1/4" angle iron piece over each outer set of holes, drill, and bolt them in place. When you get ready to mount the side tubes they will be welded to these.



Making the front end:
You will need: the front of a girl's 20" bike, 4 - 3/16" plates 4" x 2-3/8".
1) Cut the front off of the bike as shown.



2) Clamp all 4 plates together. Drill a 5/16" dia. hole through the center.




3) Place one plate on each side of the bike frame tubes, holding them in place with a bolt in the center hole. Weld them on.










4) Using the bolt in the center, clamp the remaining two plates to the bike frame. Drill 5/16" holes in all four corners. Place a bolt in the first hole drilled to index the other three.










5) Label the plates so that the holes will line up later. 





Making the side tubes:
You will need: 2 pcs. 1-1/4" dia pipe 5' long, the two remaining plates from the front end assembly, and 2 pcs. 1-1/4" angle iron 4" long.
1) Cut one end of each piece of pipe at as steep an angle as your saw will cut.











2) Lay the rear axle on a flat surface. Position the side tubes with the angled ends together and the opposite ends resting on the angle iron pieces bolted to the rear axle. You will notice that the angled ends do not quite match up. With a bench vise or hydraulic press, flatten the angled cut end down until the ends match up.










You may also use a grinder to get the desired angle. It does not have to be a perfect fit as you will be welding the angled end to a plate.




3) Drill a 5/16" dia hole 1" from the angled end of each side tube.











Wiggle the bit around some to slightly oversize the hole.
From here on you will be assembling the various components together. Make sure you have enough open space to work, whether on the floor or on a bench. You will need access from all sides, and need to be able to step back and look from the front and rear to aid in aligning the pieces. The head angle of your buggy can be set to suit your particular sailing style. If you are going to be sailing at slower speeds or in a small area such as a parking lot, you might want to have the forks more vertical. The more vertical, the quicker the turns, however the front wheel may slide sideways somewhat in a sharp turn. If you are going to be sailing fast and on large areas, a more laid-back head angle will be more stable at speed, however this will increase your turning radius. The following steps will determine the head tube angle of your buggy. There are a couple of ways to get the desired angle. One method is to have the bike frame tilted down, with the side tubes meeting at an angle.










This method lowers the seat somewhat, and also lowers the side tubes, which can be advantageous for people with shorter legs. The alternative method is to flip the bike front end over, with the side tubes meeting almost parallel.











This raises the seat and side tubes slightly, which may be better if you sail on a less than smooth surface.
Determine which method you will use before proceeding to the next step.
4) Place the forks in the front end, without a wheel or handlebars. Place the entire frame and rear axle on a flat surface, without wheels.
5) Loosely bolt the side tubes and extra plates to the bike front with a bolt through the middle hole.










Put bolts in a couple of the outer holes, and tighten.










Spread the side tubes apart and clamp them to the angle iron plates bolted to the rear axle. Snug the center bolt down. Raise the side tubes up, keeping the forks on the ground, until the desired head angle is reached. Place a block of wood or other prop under the frame to hold it up.










will need to make sure that the front end is vertical, otherwise your front wheel will lean to one side. Use a framing square or sight down the length of the frame to check. Check that the rest of the frame is true. When you are certain that all is well, tack weld the side tubes to their respective plates. Check the alignment again. Tack the rear ends of the side tubes to the angle iron mounts at the rear axle. Check alignment again; if anything is off, tweak and twist until it's right. Then weld all the joints securely. The only thing left is the seat and backrest, as well as the mast step.

Maststep Directions

Disclaimer: Landsailing and Iceboating are potentially dangerous sports. You are solely responsible for your own safety. Know your limitations, as well as those of your equipment. Regularly check the condition of your equipment.

 

 

Questions? Comments? Suggestions?